Tongariro Crossing in All Weathers

On that day, in late February, with twenty teenage girls.

The Tongariro Crossing, just south of Turangi, is on the ‘must do’ list of so many travellers, both near and far and a massive drawcard to internationals from the other side of the world. It being a fabulous example of New Zealand’s geology was the reason, I have been up that mountain many times, and, over the top, once! She is a beast not to be taken lightly. My last venture was with a group of young teenage girls who needed strong supervision not just on the venture but also with the preparation. We hiked Tongariro in late summer when the weather is supposed to be more settled. The forecast was good and everyone was confident. We set off into the Mangatepopo Valley decked out in our shorts and t-shirts, and with well-equipped packs on our backs. We tramped in along the ancient glacial valley where the incline was minimal but long. The vegetation is fascinating and to think it survives the wickedly cold winters under snow and ice wakes oneself up to our mere mortality.

There were planned stopovers for us along the way, with Soda Springs being the first. The girls were pleased for the stop and certainly vocalised their dissatisfaction of having to carry so much preparation gear with them. They were hot and their t-shirts were drenched from carrying the packs. Everyone was allowed their first pack of scroggin and water, and their ten-minute rest before attempting the Devil’s Staircase. This was in the days before the steps were built, so that staircase stood true to her name as we all clambered over the rocks. The steps and boardwalks these days is certainly protecting the landscape from so many hikers passing over each season and taking some of the guesswork out of the climb as well!

When we finally got to the top, remembering we always had a tail to bring up from behind, the amble across the Southern Crater was nothing short of pleasant and a relief for those finding the going tough … and more scroggin. Some years earlier, I had taken a cohort of younger boys up this side from Mangatepopo and we took a rugby ball with us. These days that would be frowned upon as we are trying so desperately to conserve the landscape, but it does give an idea of the expanse of the area. The next traipse up was to the Red Crater. This is an awesome place but utterly terrifying at the same time. The track is narrow, the crater is electrifying and the trip down the scree on the other side challenging. This is where the correct footwear becomes a ‘must have’ if it wasn’t earlier, climbing the staircase.

Down the scree towards the lakes was bitterly cold. The cruel wind whipped up and the thermals were being grabbed from packs without suggestion. Here we stopped for lunch. It was so good to have a reason to stop for more than ten minutes, in the eyes of both the girls and adults alike. Dragging twenty early teenagers, of various stages of fitness and willingness, was no mean feat. However, the view was well worth the effort and the chat and talk was there for a long time, maybe forever!

From the lakes, the hike was easier although still a long way from home, and another lake to view, before feeling the downhill decline underfoot. That was certainly welcomed but the skies opening up above us wasn’t. Although not in the forecast, the girls were well equipped and out came the last of the goodies in their packs: rain jackets & over-trousers! The shorts weren’t going to ‘cut it’ anymore! Skidding down through the bush, thank goodness there are boardwalks there these days, was no mean feat. Enjoying the beautiful bush and old lava flows was a challenge. There was only one thing on our minds at that late stage: home!

Reaching the bus, opening the last bag of scroggin and offloading wet gear was a total relief! Nothing could have been more satisfying than warmth, food, good company and the anticipated fire and warm bed back at camp!

So, to learn from us:

Always

• Wear sturdy footwear: good quality tramping boot with ankle support and a good gripping sole is essential. Trainers are not ideal, and certainly not sandals or jandals!
• Carry plenty of water (approx. 3 litres)
• The air is thinner at the top so take inhalers etc if you need them
• Waterproof & windproof jacket
• Waterproof over trousers
• Warm base layers (wool, fleece or polypropylene)
• Sunglasses & hat
• Beanie & gloves
• Lighter clothing such as shorts and t-shirt (never jeans)
• Sunscreen
• Healthy, high-energy food such as muesli bars, nuts, fruit, chocolate
• Map, compass or GPS
• Camera/phone
• First Aid Kit

We wore and used it all on that day in late February, well maybe not the GPS!

Posted by Mary Wood on August 18, 2023